Want the latest in anti-drift MEMS sensor technology without breaking the
bank? The ProModeler G720HV delivers Heading Lock (AVCS) sensor technology in a
bullet-proof case . . . yeah, the case has been CNC-machined from a solid billet
of 6061-T6 aircraft aluminum. Think of it as the ultimate in rubber baby buggy bumpers!
- Ultra compact design makes the G720HV suitable
for helis from 250 to 800-class
Another thing, while it works with old fashioned 4.8V servos, the crew
at ProModeler designed this gyro expressly for unregulated 2S LiPo battery
packs. Moreover, while it works with old school 70Hz analog servos, to really get your money's worth, pair it up with a digital servo with a faster refresh rate, like 330Hz or 560Hz. Note, especially for helicopters, this gyro matches up nicely to either our standard-size ProModeler DS120BLHV or the mini-size DS085BLHV - both have brushless motors. You may also use it with a DS110CLHV (also for tail rotor control) but remember to set it to 1520µs. And of course, for fixed wing applications, any other servo in our lineup works perfectly!
- Survival of the fittest - CNC machined 6061-T6 aluminum
case for ultimate protection
Now you can learn to hover faster because heading lock mode keeps the tail of
your helicopter from swinging wildly due to wind gusts, or sudden changes in
throttle/collective. Later, when you take your model into forward flight, the
remote gain function smoothly transitions the gyro for permitting you to perform
blindingly quick flips as well as constant rate pirouettes.
- Dual modes, three types of servos . . . all from one
gyro, and it's HV as well
In short, being great for learning doesn't mean the G720HV is going to
hold you back when you're ready to learn 3D tricks because of the MEMS
technology ensures both agility and stability in one. And note, while the aluminum case offers great protection during crashes, the fact it's highly polished is simply for looks (for when your friends crowd around to cast an eyeball on your
- Nicely packaged too as the protective jewel case
doubles as a product display
Measuring a bit less than one inch by one inch, and a mere half-inch thick, while weighing about 1/2 an ounce, this superb MEMS miniature gyroscope works with old
fashioned NiCd battery packs as well as the latest in 2S lithium-chemistry
receiver battery packs - without a voltage regulator - for the ultimate in high
performance! Best of all, whether your budget forces you to re-purpose an old
fashioned analog tail rotor servo (1520µs/70Hz), a standard servo (1520µs/330Hz), or for the extracting all the G720HV can offer by pairing
it up with the latest in high speed super servos (760µs/560Hz), this versatile high performance gyro makes it easier to hover and learn to
fly . . . without busting your budget.
- Dimensions and specifications of the G720HV Heading
Frequently Ask Questions
Q. Why are there 2 male plugs ends and 1 female plug end on
the gyro? I know the female accepts the male plug lead from the tail servo, but
what's with having two male plugs ends for the receiver?
A. Yes, the male plug on the servo lead plugs into the
female plug end on the gyro. Next, the 3-wire male plug end from the gyro plugs
in where the servo would ordinarily go to control rudder (tail rotor) at the
receiver. The other male plug end (note, it only has 1-wire instead of 3 and
it's red in color) is for the remote gain. This is also plugged into the
receiver, but its purpose is to allow you to change gain between normal, and
idle up 1 and 2 (perhaps called stunt mode depending on what brand of radio you
fly) and usually plugs into channel 5. While the analogy ultimately breaks down,
for now think of gyro gain as volume on your TV, so here goes . . .
Just as the television may be louder (more gain) while watching a football
game with friends and quieter (less gain) when you're alone watching the news,
the purpose of the remote gain is to let you switch between say, 65% gain in
normal mode, to 40% in idle up 1 mode, down to perhaps 35% in idle up 2 mode.
This is because there is less need for gyro gain when the model is in forward
flight (using idle up 1) as compared to when you're hovering (using normal
mode), and there's even less need for gain (holding power) while performing
3D-type aerobatics (typically using idle up 2).
Anyway, you'll fiddle with these values (the % gain) based on what the model
does in flight . . . just as you raise or lower the volume on your television
using the remote control. In this case, to change the volume (or gain) in
flight, you raise or lower the % for each of the flight modes using your
transmitter's programming section. Please refer to your specific radio system
manual for details on how to do this with your particular radio system - but
note, all brands and all models within brands work this exact way but the
specifics of what they call the functions may vary, e.g. idle up 1 may be
referred to as stunt mode 1, etc.
How does it work in practice? Well, if the tail twitches back and forth
(characterized by a zoom-zoom-zoom sound, which is due to the tail blades
fanning air as the system hunt) you reduce the gain a little bit and go fly the
maneuver again. Repeat until it stops. If it's not hunting, raise the gain
%. While the hunting is easy to see up close, if it's happening too far away to
see in flight, then your ears are your partner for identifying what's going on
(hence listening for the zoom-zoom-zoom sound). Anyway, if the tail is
hunting, then simply reduce the gain until it stops however, just like you want
the television loud enough to hear clearly, the basic idea with gyro gain is to
run as much of it as you can (louder) until the tail begins to hunts left-right,
then lower it a little bit (quieter).
Q. What do you recommend for extending the gyro leads if
they won't reach the receiver?
A. We advise using the shortest possible servo extensions,
e.g. 4-6 inch (10-15cm) long for the P6. However, we urge you to be extremely
careful about cheapo extension because what you want are really good quality
gold-plated connectors. Unfortunately, cheapo extensions frequently are either
not gold-plated, or use really, really thin plating (gold is expensive so you
get what you pay for with low bidder extension, e.g. the gold plating is
thinner). Since you cannot tell the difference by looking, we suggest buying
from a reputable vendor. The point is; thin plating more readily wears off,
which leads to corrosion, and possible subsequent loss of control - you've
been warned! As an alternative to cheapo extensions from eBay or Amazon we
advise visiting the hobby shop and paying for high quality extensions (however,
because even hobby shops are prone to buying cheapo units to relabel with their
store brand, be careful and stick to name-brand extensions only).