Better parts. Better servos. The formula is simple.
Price: $139.99

    Item #: DS630BLHV
    Availability: In stock
    Usually ships In the same business day

    Bottom line? This is the strongest most bad ass servo we know how to make. Period.

    What goes into this servo includes 6061-T6 aircraft aluminum, 35NiCrMo16 steel gears, SAE 660 bronze bushings, ABEC-9 bearings, BUNA-N o-rings, DIN-912 18-8 stainless socket cap screws, brushless motor, million-cycle potentiometer, gold-plated connectors, surface-mount components, plus a conformal coating. But what you can't see or measure is an intangible because you also get our best effort and dedication - our very heart and soul.

    Aerospace electronics, like the ones in an F-35, and especially those launched into orbit, use low-mass surface-mount MIL-SPEC components to withstand the shock and vibration - ours do too. Moreover, because component failure is so critical in harsh operating environments, they apply what's called a conformal coating (or potting compound) to further protect against shock and vibration - we do too. This servo is hand-crafted to meet your requirements - not because you're launching your model into space, or because it has to survive the jolts of 20mm rounds hitting an airframe - but because modelers also know a thing or two about the danger of crashes and the effects of engine vibrations. Don't mistake this for some hobby-grade servo because it's the exact same military-grade servo as our primary customer requires.

    If you fly IMAC maneuvers, centering is your single-most important consideration. After all, you can't possibly fly precise maneuvers otherwise. For you, one of the principal reasons for wanting this servo are the MIL-SPEC components and genuine Nobel potentiometer. These are game changers for the sport and while we pioneered their application expressly to suit our largest customer (the one delivering ordnance on a target 8000 miles away via GPS-steering), the intense R&D required just happens to suit your needs as well. Think of it as a little lagniappe derived from your tax dollars at work!

    We also pay very close attention to things like making them nearly impervious to dust, water, and exhaust-oil. How? Through the use of o-rings for sealing (a total of 13 of them) plus - where the wires exit the case - a custom seal and a special 3M-adhesive. By the way, notice how the wires aren't perfectly square where they exit the case. This is because the leads are soldered to the PCB by hand (to include both left and right-handed technicians) and before the glue dries, the wires relax to their natural set and rotate a little bit before the glue sets up. As it turns out, this results in a better seal than forcing them to stay 'square' to the case so it's an instance where ignoring our inborn OCD is a good thing!

    Better components. Better servos. The formula is simple. Decisions regarding what go into ProModeler servos aren't made in accounting (where they always optimize price and profit) but by engineering where they don't give a damn what things cost because it has to suit the mission. Of course we know this servo is a little pricey, but it's because we gave engineering a free hand. Sure, hobby-grade servos may offer similar torque and speed specs . . . but the difference is in how ours are built. It's a gut level difference!

    For example, marketing wondered why we didn't use titanium gears. It's sexy, they said. It's easier to sell, they said. Well, the reason has everything to do with steel having better mechanical properties for gears! Sure titanium, like carbon fiber, is sexy and easy to sell but if titanium were the be-all, end-all for gears, then in Formula 1 racing where it's very much a 'cost be damned world', they'd be using titanium gears, right? They don't for the same reason we don't, our engineers are of the opinion our steel alloy (nitrided 35NiCrMo16) is better . . . so engineering told marketing to stick it in their ear!

    Then there was the time accounting wondered why we use pricey Swiss-machined bronze inserts (we press them into the case for reinforcement). The way it works, under the kind of loads this servo may encounter, the aluminum pockets where the steel shafts fit are pounded so hard sometimes they go egg-shape (because steel is harder than aluminum). Since these are the shafts upon which the gears themselves rotate, once that happens gear wear accelerates because the gear-mesh has gone to hell (meaning a new set of gears won't solve the problem because the case itself is deformed).

    So engineering addressed the problem by reinforcing the aluminum bores with SAE 660 bronze bushings, which nobody in the hobby-business does to their aluminum servos. Granted, accounting had a point - the bushings 'are' a little expensive (and we use 3 in each servo) but it's only because they're very small parts (and thus, more difficult to handle which makes them more costly).

    Ultimately, their complaint boiled down to, "Our competitors fit shafts directly into the aluminum bores!" to which we politely observed, that's because we don't build hobby-grade servos! So basically, we told them to go pound sand - but very politely because they do the paychecks!

    So how strong is this servo? Well, 630 oz-in ÷ 16 oz/pound results in nearly 40 pounds, which is significantly more than a concrete block - or about as much as a 5 y/o weighs!

    Final note: operating voltage range is 4.8-8.4V, but optimal performance is obtained with a 2S LiPo instead of a BEC. In part this is because we don't know of any BEC that can reliably supply the clean current our high performance servos need at the same time as the drive motor is making it's maximum demands on the propulsion battery. Moreover, even if we knew of a BEC (either incorporated into the ESC, or a stand-alone unit) whose output wasn't garbage compared to even the cheapest LiPo on the planet, our advice is still . . . you're way ahead of the game by isolating control-electronics from noisy propulsion-loads. Yes, we know this means charging two separate battery packs, and yes, we know this is more trouble, but a dedicated battery for the radio is better. More here:

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    For detailed specifications and dimension drawings, select the Specs tab above. If they match up with your requirements, then pull the trigger and add a set to your cart. You're going to love them!